Admire Flowers in Fog – first impression of West Lake

Weather forecast said it would rain and become cold from the 3^rd Day of Chinese New Year, so we made a last-minute decision (on the 1^st Day of the holiday) to visit West Lake at Hangzhou city on the 2^nd Day of Chinese New Year.

 

On 30^th January (2^nd Day of CNY), my husband – Xin Yong, my mother-in-law and a foreign friend of my family- David and I, total 4 person, set off to Hangzhou around 8.30am. I drove the car! After accumulating 4months’ driving experience in Shanghai, I was going to try a new track.

 

At the beginning, everything seemed all right. After driving on Hu Hang High Way for half an hour, the cars in front started to slow down. The sound of siren rang from the behind, we could see an Emergency Truck was squeezing its way forward, so I turned my car slightly to the right thus could let the truck pass. Few minutes later, cars resumed its normal speed. We noticed there were four seriously crashed cars lying at the right lane of the High Way. How pity it is, a holiday is spoiled.

 

Looking at the meter, we drove 50km only in 1 hour! I needed to speed up because the normal time to Hangzhou by car is 2 hour only (Hangzhou is 150km away from Shanghai). But it became foggy, weather forecast didn’t mention there would be fog! Otherwise we might have changed our trip to another day. But grandma said “Not cry over spilled milk”, so let’s go on. The visibility was less than 100meters. I have to drive slowly and carefully. Suddenly the cars in front stopped. I thought there was car accident again, but when I saw more and more people stopped and came out of the car, I realized it was not because of car accident, but the road was blocked. The signboard above our head reconfirmed the situation: “High Way is temporarily blocked because of heavy fog”. What shall we do? Xin Yong took out a map and studied whether we should visit a nearby scenic spot instead of going to Hangzhou. But we have come to the point Hangzhou was the nearest place to go, and if we went to other places, it might be even more difficult to drive along side way in the fog. So we decided to wait. People made use of the time to smoke, eat snack or go to toilet (no toilet at road side, so have to water the brush besides). No person seemed in a hurry, that was one benefit of holiday.

 

About 20minutes later, people in the front got back to their car. This worked as policeman’s baton,  people in the back all followed and quickly started cars’ engine. Actually the fog was still heavy, I didn’t care why we were allowed to move because it was 10:30am already. The fog was so heavy that I can’t see cars of 50 meters away, so I had to switch on double-sign light, and drove slowly as walking through heavy cloud.

 

This celestial walk lasted for about 2 hours, a sign board “Hangzhou City” jumped into our vision. we finally reached Hangzhou. David’s Hangzhou map came into handy, Xin Yong guided me coming to Yanan Road, there were several residential building along road side, so I turned several turns and found a free parking lot in front of a block. It was 1:30pm already, about one hour covered 30km..

 

All of us were very hungry, we couldn’t wait to roam on the street to find restaurant, so took a cab heading directly to HuangfanEr restaurant (a restaurant recommended by a blogger). We ordered Duck’s Tongue and Pig’s Ear Jelly as starter, all sounds so barbarous, David didn’t try a bite of them. Xinyong jokingly told David “Chinese eat everything can fly in the sky except airplane; everything can run on the ground except train”. That is true. For main course we tried Westlake Fish (too sweet), Madam Song’s Fish Soup (just so so), Dongpo Meat (too oily, the white meat is at least 1” thick) and a fried vegetable. All in all, they were quite disappointing (maybe we had a too high expectation of Hangzhou food).

 

After lunch, it was 3pm already. We had no time to waste but walked to West Lake. West Lake is very big, its perimeter is about 15km. The lake is divided into several major scenic spot, each spot is like a garden itself, with green grassland, charming water, ancient bridges and floating boats. It is worthy to take a leisure walk, taking time to admire the beautiful scenery. But that day was very foggy, everything was like behind a piece of veil. And there were so many people, it made me feel like crossing the platform of MRT/Subway in the rush hour. So we walked fairly fast, passed through the famous Su Dye in less than one hour, half of the normal time required. We took the end of Su Dye as our last stop of West Lake, because it was quite dark, 7pm already.

 

We planned to try Hangzhou’s snack (I had no mood to try other formal dish in restaurant) at famous Zhi Wei Guan (thanks to blogger’s diary). But it seemed that taxi’s business was very good, it took us more than 20 minuets to catch a cab. Finally, we reached Zhi Wei Guan, it was like Shanghai’s Cheng Huang Miao. There was a long counter in the crowded hall, various kinds of snack were displaced on it. Customers stood closely at one side of counter, shouting to waiter/waitress at other side of the food they wanted. Many food were new to me, so I could only shouted “this, this, that, that!” by looking at the sample dish, and carried to our table: River Conch, Gluten and Doufu soup, Duck Blood with Vermicelli Soup, Xiao Long Bao Zi/steamed stuffed bun, Hun Dun/Dumpling Soup, and Mao Er Dou (a delicious soup with tiny paste and dried scallop and chicken meat), translated literally is Ear of Cat, so horrible! I also can’t understand how the name was given to that food, you know it is very famous in Hang Zhou! I think as long as it has nothing to do with Panda, Chinese can accept any name used on food.

 

After the snack, we went to collect our car and bid farewell to Hangzhou. My eyes were so sour that my eyelid almost glued together, so it was Xin Yong’s turn to drive. Though there was still fog, but much less car, so we reached Shanghai in 2hous only. I should admit Xin Yong’s super driving skill also made the return trip shorter. 

 

Ok, that was end of 1^st round of West Lake tour, we were expecting to go back again. Yes, “I will be back”  

 

  

7 February, 2006.

 

白云源-雨中登观音尖

 

终于盼到了十一假期，终于可以离开城市，把期待已久的登山计划付诸实施了。

 

十月一日，阳光灿烂。7.30，我的丈夫新永和我，以及我们的朋友戴维（英国人）从莘庄出发，沿沪杭高速，向我们的目的地白云源前进。

 

原计划是由我驾车的，但拿到驾照刚两周，感觉很没有把握，最主要不想让自己生涩的技术影响整个行程，所以坚决地把方向盘交给了新永，我负责拿着地图给他导航。如同我们所预料的，路上的车很多，路边的加油站也挤满了车辆和排队等洗手间的人。我们途经杭州绕城北-杭州绕城西-转塘-320国道（沿桐庐、建德方向。共有3个收费口）-富春江镇（不进桐庐镇）。一条大江横在眼前：富春江，烟波浩淼，群山环绕。车慢慢地在大坝上驶过，三块叠起的大石头映入眼帘“白云源”。

 

这是个叉路，打电话给预定的“龙门酒家”，店主指点我们沿左侧的山路前进，我们迟疑地向前驶去，路不到两个车宽，一侧是山岩，一侧就是河床。薄薄的沥青路面，有些地方已经露出了泥土，十分颠簸。这时明白了店主建议我们开越野车的原因。小心地行驶了近20分钟，终于看到了几幢不到不到5层高的小楼坐落在山脚下，其中的一家就是我们预定的“龙门酒家”。

 

此时里程表显示280公里，历时5个半小时。原本想定旁边的“山里人家“，60元/天带独立卫生间，但它的房间不够了。”龙门”趁假期涨价，80元/天，空调费另算，饭菜也比别家贵许多。但这里的习惯是在哪家住，就在哪家吃。午餐是红烧鲫鱼，笋干烧肉，蕨菜炒鸡蛋和炒青菜，味道远没有我们期待的山里野菜的香甜，米饭也有些硬。戴维不习惯这么细的刺，喉咙被小刺卡住了。赶快要了一小碗醋，他喝了几大口，又吞了几口米饭。他可能对醋的酸度有怀疑，居然把一条鱼骨泡到剩下的醋里，约一分钟后，他看到鱼骨确实变软了，好象喉咙才感到舒服了。

 

下午，我们上山游览。第一个景点“鸳鸯潭”，一处清澈的潭水，没看到鸳鸯，倒有很多游得欢快的小鱼，一群游人在旁边跃跃愈试地想去捉，唉，几年后，这些活泼可爱的小鱼恐怕就是餐桌上的菜肴了。

 

第二个景点“小龙门“，一条20米高的瀑布从山崖上飞下，落入潭水中。水不大深，磨圆的石块清楚可见。有些人兴奋地下水嬉戏，可惜我们没穿凉鞋，否则一定会一起去趟水，哪怕滑一跤也甘心。高高的石块间有一竹桥横跨，走上去颤颤威威，几个男孩故意在上面又跑又，把前面的女孩吓得大声地叫。好在桥不太高，否则真是危险。总应为日后的游人着想吧，少一点磨损，桥也能耐久一些呀。

 

 

 

为了节省体力，我们在山上走了2个多小时就往回走了。回到住处，开晚饭。点了个慕名已久的土鸡煲，汤味果然鲜美,但鸡太小,肉也不太烂。三个人一边喝酒，一边聊天。因为店主怀疑戴维是否能爬得到上观音尖，所以我就顾不上忌讳，询问戴维有多大年纪，这才惊知他已60岁了。他身材硬朗，虽听力依靠助听器，但兴致盎然，不得不佩服老外的探险精神了。

 

10月2日早4.30起床。习惯了城市随处可见的灯光，面对外面黝黑的群山，还真有点不习惯。速速用了早餐，店主帮我们约的向导（80元/趟，非假期50元）和拖拉机（50元/趟）就到了。看看外面的天，店主塞给了我们两件雨衣(3元两件)，我们就上路了。

 

这辆拖拉机锈迹斑斑，左侧驾驶座的门已没有，右侧的门也是费了好大的力才关上。戴维坐在前面，我和新永站在车兜里，双手紧握栏杆。车轰隆隆地在山路上跑，路面是石头路，我俩随着车上下颠簸，我的腹部开始疼痛起来，真担心会搞成胃下垂。大约30分钟后，车终于停下，大龙门到了，一条100多米高的瀑布从左侧山壁上飞流直下。向导是骑摩托车上来的，他已用树枝做成了拐杖，给我们上山用。为了爬山，我们特意穿了长衣、长裤，登山鞋，每人还配了手套，帽子。裤角也塞在袜子里，这主要是为了防蚂蝗。在网上看了许多人爬此座山时被蚂蝗吸血的可怕经历。另外山上还有蛇和野猪。

 

6．25分开始爬山。观音尖海拔1200米,是座未被开发的野山，不要指望台阶或索道。这也是吸引我们的原因所在。向导在前，背后插着一把长弯刀，左肩背着个布袋，步履轻松，我们三人紧跟在后。刚开始的路就很陡峭，我们手脚并用，气喘吁吁。大概爬了200米，路面变缓。所谓的路，是在丛林中踩出的痕迹，不仔细看，很难辨别向哪里走，不时可看到一大滩的牛粪。山上长满茂密的松树、竹子、茶树、猕猴桃树和棕页树，向导说以前他们在山上种玉米，一天要上山三趟摘玉米，不由地佩服山里人的好体力。

 

继续前行，我们把裁好的布条挂在叉路口的树枝上，因为到山顶后向导要去摘猕猴桃，我们得自己下山。不一会，一座破旧的砖房出现在眼前，“红旗林场”的原址到了。向导说这满山的树就是当年的红旗林场种植的，林场为种数还用大石块在山坡上垫了条小路，随着林场的撤离，人迹奚落，石路已被草丛覆盖了。在一块石头上坐下，想到在那革命的年代里，一群年轻人曾经热情高涨地在这荒山上挥汗植树，不知他们可否回来看过这片树林，可否还会回想起那段青春岁月。

 

空气十分潮湿，天色阴暗，快要下雨了。我们喝了口水，继续前行。几乎没有路了，竹林比人要高。我们用手杖拨开枝条，但好几次帽子和眼镜被高处的枝叶勾住，我索性猫下腰来，在树叶下面穿行。大家都不讲话，只有树叶的沙沙声。突然，下起雨来，本不想穿雨衣，但向导说被打湿后会很冷的。但这是很薄的一次性雨衣，刚穿上，袖子就被竹叶刮碎了。顾不上挑剔了，向山顶冲刺。

 

“到了”，我们到观音尖了！一看表9.45，只用了3个小时，比我们预想地快。

 

 

此时的能见度不到10米，烟雾缭绕。据说这山上有百亩草甸，在晴天，可以清楚地俯瞰桐庐镇的全貌。山上没有亭子，没有庙，大家只能站着，把手杖、手套靠在草丛上，拿出背上来的干粮，和着雨水就餐。出乎意料的，我们并不觉得累，决定马上动身下山。

向导已消失在竹林中，我们按原路返回。戴维的助听器在雨水的浸泡下失去效果了，我们需在他耳边大声讲话，他才听得见。因此我和新永让他走在中间，免得他走失。我们不时停下，确认一下方位，检查一下身上是否有蚂蝗，因为向导说蚂蝗在雨天比较多。一个多小时后，我们回到了红旗林场的旧屋前。大家很欣慰，戴维拿出小本子，把我和新永叫到身边，诵读《圣经》诗篇第18章“The Lord is my rock,my fortress and my deliver; my God is my rock, in whom I take refuge. He is my shield and horn of my salvation, my stronghold. I call to the Lord, who is worthy of praise, and I am saved from my enemies.” 感谢上帝的带领。

 

此时雨水已打湿全身，一停下来就感到十分寒冷，所以又继续动身了。虽有小雨，但空气格外清鲜，云雾在山峰环绕，鸟儿和蛐蛐在耳边唱歌，真是个养眼养生的好地方。路上我们还看到了来时做的记号，信心更加坚定了，但仍需格外小心。山路不到一尺宽，一侧是山壁，一侧就是山坡，山坡上虽有茂密的树木，但不敢想象滚下去的后果。时而我们得穿过小溪，我在一处石头上踩滑，一脚踩到水里，反正鞋子已早被雨水打湿了,不在乎了。这是，忽然看到一个年轻人迎面走来，这是我们从早到现在看到的第一个人。他要独自登山，还撑着把伞，真欣赏他的闲情和勇气。

 

突然路变得陡起来，戴维建议我们找另一条缓些的路，但看到四周茂密的树丛和远处连绵的群山，我们没把握是否在天黑前走得通，最后决定仍走这条陡坡。新永走在前面，不时告诉我们脚踩在哪里，手抓哪块石头，别看他平时不做运动，但登山技术还真不赖。“扑通“，戴维在一处近90度的坡上滑倒了，他手抓住了树根，脸贴地面，我们赶快按住了他的双脚，让他一点点移动到一个可以落脚的地方。60岁了，他居然没说一个痛字。

 

我们还不时喊着喂喂，终于远处有了回应，说明我们快回到大龙门了。但一段颇长的大石头路让我和新永疑惑是不是走错了路，但戴维坚信路线正确。也许爬山的时候有向导带路，对路线没太留心，和平时跟别人走总也记不住路的毛病同出一辙。忽然，眼前一亮，一片空地呈现眼前，远处的瀑布发出隆隆的水声，我们回到大龙门了！又经过3个小时，我们爬下来了！

 

此时的我们帽子歪带，雨衣划成碎片，全身沾满泥水，拄着拐杖，活脱脱的丐帮形象。旁边的游人得知我们刚刚爬了观音尖，佩服不已。我们也倍感骄傲，赶快留影纪念。

 

这还不是终点，我们得继续步行半个多小时走到杜仲园，搭免费的小巴，回到旅馆。踉踉跄跄进了房间，脱掉鞋袜，冲凉，换上干衣服。忽见一只黑色的蚂蝗藏在袜子里。感谢上帝，我们的脚完好无损，这只蚂蝗没能钻到袜子里.。

 

 

10月3日，天仍在下雨，台风“龙王“登陆福建。我们取消了在附近观赏严子陵钓台的计划，决定直接返沪，因为我们没有其他的干衣服,不能再淋湿了。出发前买了些野猕猴桃,板栗,笋干和豆角干. 回家的路开了4个小时。油费，过路费，住宿，吃饭，算起来平均一人400元。到家的第二天，戴维给我发短信，说他的耳机烘干后，又恢复正常了。我真地替他高兴。

 

哦，感谢上帝的指引和保护，我们这三个人得以在雨中圆满地攀登了桐庐的最高山：观音尖。

 

 

 

 

 

2005年10月5日